The Saco do Mamangua, located about ten kilometers away from Paraty is only accessible by sea or on foot. Despite its lack of press coverage it is undoubtedly worth visiting. Today it is very seldom visited regardless of its many attractions. It is a real gem, covering over 8 kilometers of shores bordered by the Mata Atlantica (Atlantic rainforest) and a carpet of mangroves at one end.
A natural gift of extreme beauty, populated by about a hundred Caiçara families, the ethnic group originating from a mix of Tupinambas Indian, Black African and European colonists.

There are no paved roads into this area, and the industrial trawlers which would practice wild fishing in this rich sea have deserted this bay, so tired they were from getting their nets torn apart on the hundreds of metal spikes intentionally submerged.

Trek – 3-hour of actual walking - 100 meters of elevation gain- easy
Departure from Paraty at 08:30 in a local minibus, with our English-speaking guide, for the village of Laranjeiras (30-minute drive). The trek starts with a short ascent, and then enters the Atlantic forest (Mata Atlantica). After an hour and a half of pleasant walking, we reach the bottom of Saco do Mamangua, certainly the wildest place in the area.
Though a vegetation opening, we discover the narrow and deep Bay resembling a Scandinavian fjord.
A few hundred meters lower, we arrive at Regato, little hamlet lost on the edge of the mangrove. We are welcome by Sir Jurray and his family, perpetuating the traditional lifestyle of the Caiçaras. For the last few years, an oyster farming project and the artisan confection of painted wooded boats replicates provide an alternative source of income other than fishing which represents the principal resource of the area.
After lunch, Dona Gracinha invites us to witness the assembly of one of these miniatures.
In the afternoon, we follow our hike (1½-hour) towards the "Refugio do Mamangua", where Paulo, biologist-writer, and Cristina, his wife welcome us.
Settled here for the last ten years, they are conducting a study on the equilibrium between a fragile ecosystem and its interdependency with human activity (fishing, oyster-farming, agriculture, tourism). If we are lucky, they will be available during our stay to share with us their true passion for the area. They welcome us in their bungalows, offering basic comfort (no electricity, but hot shower) and a guaranteed serenity.

3-hour canoe tour
In the morning, we head to the end of the Bay for a canoe incursion of a few hours in the mangrove. Our craft, easy to maneuver and silent, is the ideal mean to get close to this pristine nature and its abundant fauna: egrets, ibises and kingfishers, but most of all to the enormous quantity of crabs, from the little red Siri with black legs, to the caranguejo, its huge cousin the size of the common crab, accompany us during the tour.
We leave our crafts to walk up-river a few hundred meters and enjoy, over lunch, the coolness of a natural pool.
Return to Refugio de Mamangua in the afternoon. End of day open, option of an “Olympic” nap in a competition hammock.

Trek – 2½-hour of actual walking - 450 meters of elevation gain- difficult
We cross the bay in a canoe to reach Cruzeiro, a quiet fishing hamlet on the shores of the Saco. We find ourselves at the base of peak Mamangua, also called "Sugarloaf of Mamangua", culminating at 440 meters. A one-hour ascent takes us to the summit, from where we enjoy a beautiful panoramic view over the Saco de Mamangua. We take the time to enjoy the scenery before descending, via the same itinerary, to the beach for a well-deserved bath.