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| The Serra da Bocaina |
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The mountainous range of the Serra da Bocaina separates the valley of Paraiba from the coast of the Costa Verde, two different worlds as much for their human activity as their ecosystems.
This mountain is one of the most imposing in Brazil with one of its peaks reaching 2000 meters above sea level. The abundant nature is as perfectly preserved as the local rural way of life.
Unknown, unspoiled and seldom visited, the Serra da Bocaina and its immense, 110.000-hectare, National Park is well worth a visit for the numerous hiking possibilities it offers. A real trekking for trained hikers who are not afraid of the various inclines covering the stretch between São José do Barreiro and the Atlantic coast. |
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The Serra da Bocaina, theater of a major page of Brazil’s history |
Another reason to visit this area is its involvement in an important page of Brazil’s history: The Gold Trail that ran from Minas Gerais.
Since the mines of Ouro Preto and Diamantina were discovered, the official road that took the gold, emerald and diamond convoys from the high valleys to the ocean emerged at Paraty, which was the main commercial port of the region.
After several weeks of effort, the “tropeiros” arrived safe and sound, their cargo heavily controlled and taxed by the tax collectors of the king.
The only way to free oneself from this taxation was to take illegal routes, which are followed along the walk.
This takes us back to the cruel era when illegal traders would rather confront the Guaiaina Indians than the agents of the crown...
An era when the Serra da Bocaina, because of its difficult access, became a refuge for escaped slaves. Here they founded the "quilombos", dispersed communities in the depths of the forest constantly threatened by punitive expeditions.
Little by little along the cobbles of the Gold Trail, to the rhythm of the donkeys who carry our bags on their backs and the caravan leaders with their leather boots and felt hats, we begin to imagine and understand a part of this tormented history of this country-continent.
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The Tropeiros trek, crossing of the Serra da Bocaina on foot |
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| Day 1 : RIO DE JANEIRO – BANANAL – SÃO JOSE DO BARREIRO |
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09:00 departure from Rio de Janeiro in our private transportation. After an hour drive, we reach the colonial village of Bananal. We have the option to visit one of the coffee plantations of the area before freely strolling through the village streets. Our itinerary then takes us on the sinuous roads of the Carioca backcountry. Rapidly, the air cools and the environment becomes more mountainous. In the afternoon we arrive in the village of São José Do Barreiro, where we meet our English-speaking guide.
Meals not included. Night in a pousada. |
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| Day 2 : SÃO JOSE DO BARREIRO – SERRA DA BOCAINA – RECANTO DA FLORESTA |
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Trek – 6-hour of actual walking – 850 meters of elevation gain – difficult
Our first trekking day, from São Jose Do Barreiro we head up the hillsides of the Serra Da Bocaina. We cross vast pastures, pass cattle, skirts diverse plantations (coffee, citrus fruits…), and enjoy beautiful viewpoints over the area.
As we ascend, the vegetation changes, passing from tropical to alpine, with notably the presence of araucarias, resinous typical of the area.
At the end of the afternoon, we reach our day stop, a pousada resembling a familial household, comfortable and welcoming, in the edge of the Natural Park.
All included. Night in a pousada.
Option: reach the plateaus by 4WD by a dirt road, check with us. |
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| Optional day : RECANTO DA FLORESTA - PICO TIRA CHAPEU – RECANTO DA FLORESTA |
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Trek – 6-hour of actual walking – 600 meters of elevation gain – moderate
Today’s itinerary is a loop. We leave in the morning in the direction of Pico Tira Chapeu (literally, the peak "take hat off", for the violent winds blowing during certain periods of the year).
The trail follows the bottom of a valley where the vegetation is dense before climbing the grass covered hillside.
We reach the peak’s summit, the highest point in the Park at 2200 meters above sea level, just in time for lunch.
Comfortably seated on a giant stone, we discover a vast panorama over the surrounding area. From our promontory, we catch a glimpse of the Bay of Ilha Grande and of the different mountain ranges separating us from the ocean, with their summits getting higher and higher as they range inland.
First the Serra Do Mar, overlooking the Atlantic from a fairly low elevation. Then, seeming a replicate of the coastal chain, the mountain range of Bocaina in which we are and which surrounds us. Finally, more inland, the mountains of the park of Itatiaia tickling the clouds.
In the afternoon, we return to the pousada following a different itinerary.
All included (cold lunch). Night in a pousada. |
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| Day 3 : RECANTO DA FLORESTA – CASA PINTADA |
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Trek – 6-hour of actual walking – 400 meters of elevation gain – moderate
We enter the National Park. We are traveling over the plateau of the Serra Da Bocaina, often exceeding an elevation of 5000 feet above sea level. The trek is interrupted by numerous stops at the successive waterfalls we encounter along the way. They are often large enough for a swim, and they are always splendid and good for a rest!
After the waterfall of São Isidro, we pass the waterfalls of do Paredão Fall, Cachoeirinha, the "well dos Marrecos" and finally, the fall of Dos Posses, located in the middle of a pine tree forest. We travel under the summits of the Bocaina, Pico Tira Chapéu, Pico do Gavião and the Morro de Boa Vista… Our destination of the day is the "Casa Pintada", a little further at the end of the track.
All included. Night with local host (basic comfort). |
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| Day 4 : CASA PINTADA – SÃO GONÇALO |
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Trek – 3 to 4-hour of actual walking – 250 meters of elevation gain – moderate
During the days to follow, we reconnect with the atmosphere of the tropeiros. Mules carry our bags from now on (instead of truck). The dusty track is replaced by a narrow trail entering the Mata Atlantica. We still encounter, here and there, minuscule peasants’ hamlets.
Then, we found ourselves hiking on paved trails dating from colonial times.
Upon arrival at our destination of the day (a farm of a few buildings where we are welcome in the house of a local host), we put our bags down to go to the discovery of the impressive waterfall of Veados, the natural gem of the area.
All included. Lodging with local host (basic comfort). |
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| Day 5 : SÃO GONÇALO – PEREQUE – PARATY OR RIO |
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Trek – 4 to 5-hour of actual walking – 100% descent – easy
For this last trekking day, we descend towards the coast and walk a large part of the day over the cobblestones of the Gold trail.
Once we pass large pastures (open view of the area), we then enter lush dense vegetation, typical of the Mata Atlantica. Within a few minutes, the atmosphere becomes more humid and warmer. We cross numerous streams flowing in the direction of the ocean. We wade or use whatever bridge like structures are available. These, narrow but solid, moving but secure, give this trek a flavor of adventure that will accompany the trekker all the way to the coast.
Our private transportation awaits us at the end of the road to drive us towards Paraty, Angra dos Reis (where we embark for Ilha Grande) or Rio de Janeiro.
Lunch included. Dinner open. Night in hotel. |
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Note for those who want more |
There is an option of a more demanding extension: Trek to the "official" Gold trail (this one is the smugglers trail) and then to Paraty.
Day 5: from the casa Estelina, reach the pousada Macelo (5-hour walk)
Day 6: Pousada Macelo – Campos de Cunha
Day 7: Campos de Cunha – Pico da Macela (unique view over the Bay of Paraty, from 2000 meters above sea level!) – and descent via the Trilha de Ouro (not as well preserved as the other but still visible) to the fazenda Murycana, from which we easily reach Paraty, a few miles below.
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